Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are synthetic chemicals found in thousands of everyday products, from non-stick cookware to water-resistant clothing. While their resistance to heat, water, and oil has made them popular in consumer goods and industrial applications, PFAS have a darker side: they don’t break down in the environment and can accumulate in human and animal bodies over time, leading to serious health and environmental concerns. Known as “forever chemicals,” PFAS have been linked to cancer, hormone disruption, immune system impairments, and other harmful effects, raising significant public health and environmental justice issues. This mounting evidence has led to increased calls for a ban on PFAS.
One of the most concerning aspects of PFAS is their environmental persistence. Unlike other chemicals that degrade over time, PFAS can remain in the soil and water for decades. They can spread easily in the environment, contaminating groundwater, rivers, and soil, making them extremely difficult to remove. Even low levels of PFAS can accumulate and move up the food chain, ultimately impacting human health and biodiversity. Studies have found PFAS in the blood of nearly all tested Americans and in wildlife around the globe.
PFAS contamination also has a disproportionately negative impact on certain communities. Many production facilities near lower-income neighbourhoods have released PFAS into local water supplies, exposing vulnerable populations to high levels of these chemicals. This creates a significant environmental justice issue, as these communities may lack the resources to mitigate exposure or access clean water alternatives.
Health Risks Associated with PFAS
The risks that PFAS pose to human health are significant and well-documented. Research has shown that exposure to certain PFAS can cause reproductive and developmental issues, damage to the liver and kidneys, and immune system impairments. More alarmingly, studies have linked PFAS exposure to an increased risk of certain cancers, such as kidney and testicular cancer. Additionally, PFAS can disrupt hormone function, which may have long-term health implications, particularly for children and pregnant women.
The problem of PFAS exposure is compounded by the fact that they accumulate in the body over time, and because they are present in a wide range of consumer goods, exposure can occur through multiple avenues—air, water, food, and everyday household products. This makes PFAS uniquely challenging to regulate on an individual level, underscoring the need for comprehensive policy solutions.
Beyond the environmental and health implications, PFAS contamination has significant economic costs. The financial burden of cleaning up contaminated sites and providing medical care for affected individuals is enormous. Local governments, especially in communities heavily affected by PFAS contamination, often bear the financial burden of addressing these issues, diverting resources away from other critical services. Additionally, businesses that rely on clean water sources, such as agriculture and tourism, can suffer losses due to PFAS contamination.
Efforts to remove PFAS from the environment are often complex and expensive, requiring advanced technologies to filter and neutralize these chemicals effectively. Banning PFAS would not only prevent further contamination but also reduce the future economic impact of cleanup efforts and healthcare costs associated with PFAS exposure.
The Case for a Ban on PFAS
A ban on PFAS would be a crucial step toward mitigating their long-term impact on public health and the environment. Some nations and U.S. states have already enacted restrictions on PFAS, primarily for specific uses such as firefighting foam. However, a comprehensive, federal-level ban could be more effective in addressing the issue holistically. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has proposed plans to regulate PFAS in drinking water and is evaluating the safety of different PFAS chemicals, but a complete ban would send a strong message to manufacturers and prioritize the protection of public health.
In addition to banning PFAS, there is also a need to invest in research and development of safer alternatives. Many industries that use PFAS in manufacturing could switch to non-toxic or biodegradable materials, reducing dependency on these harmful chemicals. Incentives for companies to adopt these alternatives could further drive innovation and encourage sustainable practices across industries.
New Zealand at Forefront
New Zealand is banning so-called “forever chemicals” in cosmetics from 2026, in what could be the first example of a country doing so. The Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) said it has banned the use of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in cosmetics to protect people and the environment from the chemicals.
PFAS are added to cosmetics to smooth the skin, or to make cosmetic products more durable, spreadable and water resistant. They are a class of about 14,000 chemicals often used to make products resistant to water, stains and heat and are called “forever chemicals” because they are virtually indestructible.
An increasing international body of evidence is linking PFAS with cancers, birth defects and negative effects on the immune systems of humans and animals. The chemicals have been detected in drinking water sources, sea foam and spray, rain and groundwater, sea ice, and human blood and are found in cosmetics such as shaving cream and lipstick, as well as Teflon pans and pizza boxes.
The EPA said that although the chemicals were found in a small number of cosmetic products, it was taking a precautionary approach to any potential risks. The cosmetic ban is part of a wider response to protect against the chemicals, including testing for background levels of PFAS in the environment and phasing out PFAS-firefighting foams.
“We know these chemicals don’t easily break down, they can build up in our bodies, and some can be toxic at high levels,” said Dr Shaun Presow, the EPA’s hazardous substances reassessments manager. The EPA publicly consulted on the rule changes in 2023 and received 20 submissions, including 14 from the cosmetics industry. Presow said the EPA would work with the industry to manage the transition before the changes take effect.
Some states in the US have already proposed legislation to ban or limit PFAS ahead of federal regulations. California was the first major jurisdiction to ban all PFAS in cosmetics, in September 2022, with a transitional period for enforcement after 1 January 2025, while the states of Maine and Minnesota recently passed a law prohibiting products made with intentionally added PFAS chemicals from 2030. The European Union is working on a broader ban on the chemicals.
The EPA could not say definitively if New Zealand was the first country to ban the chemicals in some form, though it said it could not find other examples. Environmental, health, and science specialists have applauded the move, saying it positions New Zealand as one of the pioneers globally in addressing the risks associated with PFAS.
While no New Zealand cosmetics manufacturers surveyed by the EPA found PFAS in their products, about 90% of cosmetics are imported, said Prof Allan Blackman at Auckland University of Technology’s School of science. “[That] could lead to significant compliance requirements for those involved in their importation, and indeed the disappearance of certain products from shelves post 2027,” Blackman said. “Having taken this first step, it will be interesting to see what, if anything, happens to other PFAS sources such as non-stick cookware and waterproof fabrics.”
France
On April 4, French MPs approved a bill introduced by the Green party that aims at restricting the manufacture and sale of any cosmetic product, wax product (for skis) and most clothing textile products containing per- and polyfluoroalkylated (PFAS) substances from January 1, 2026. Present in many everyday products, PFAS are also dubbed “forever chemicals”, due to their very long life cycle. Despite heated debates, a bill aimed at banning them in certain consumer goods was unanimously approved by French MPs.
The main provision of the bill called for a ban on the manufacture, import and sale of any cosmetic product, wax product (for skis) or clothing textile product containing per- and polyfluoroalkylated (PFAS) substances, with the exception of protective clothing for safety and civil security professionals from January 1, 2026. All other textiles containing PFAS will be forbidden from January 1, 2030. Kitchen utensils – which were initially included in the ban – were removed from the list in the course of the parliamentary debate.
As far as cosmetic labels products are concerned, the text voted by French MPs sets similar deadlines to those recommended by Cosmetics Europe. In 2023, the trade association representing the cosmetics industry in Europe called on manufacturers to phase out the use of PFAS in cosmetic products by December 31st, 2025.
“Without waiting for a ban, cosmetic manufacturers have been taking voluntary steps to eliminate PFAS ingredients for several years. Their use in cosmetic products is very marginal and the few substances concerned are being substituted. Today, out of 30,000 cosmetic substances used, only eight PFAS are still identified,” the French Federation of beauty companies (FEBEA) said in a statement.
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are synthetic chemicals that were first developed in the 1940s to withstand intense heat and repel water and grease. They have since been used in a vast range of household and industrial products including food packaging, make-up, stain-proof fabric, non-stick pots and pans and foam used to fight fires. Because PFAS take an extremely long time to break down over the years they have seeped into the soil and groundwater, getting into our food chain and drinking water in the process. These chemicals have now been detected virtually everywhere on Earth, from the top of Mount Everest to inside human blood and brains.
In several countries, such as the United States, the Netherlands, Belgium or New Zealand, PFAS are receiving increasing attention due to their presence in drinking waters and as a potential threat to health. PFAS will be banned in cosmetics in California as of January 1, 2025. Earlier this year New Zealand’s Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) said it will ban PFAS in cosmetics and firefighting foams by 2027. The European Union is also considering a Europe-wide ban on PFAS from as early as 2026. In France, the bill adopted by the Assembly must now be submitted to the Senate for a second reading.
EU Level
On 7 February 2023 the European Chemicals Agency (“ECHA”) published a comprehensive dossier concerning a ban on around 10,000 per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (“PFAS”). PFAS are used in many industries and present in many consumer goods. The restriction proposal aims to restrict the manufacture, placing on the market and use of substances harmful to human health and the environment, and to limit their associated risks. The ban is to be implemented under Regulation (EU) No 1907/2006 (“REACH”). An initial open consultation has been completed, and ECHA’s scientific committees are now examining the potential impacts of the restriction proposal.
In view of these issues, experts from public authorities in Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Norway have assessed the risks that PFAS pose for humans and the environment. In their assessment, these authorities concluded that the manufacture, use and placing on the market of PFAS entail significant risks, as does their disposal. The findings have been set out in a “restriction dossier” and submitted by the authorities to ECHA, the European Chemicals Agency. ECHA published the restriction dossier on 7 February 2023 with minor changes. The ban it envisages covers over 10,000 different PFAS. ECHA itself describes the restriction dossier as the “broadest restriction proposal under REACH so far”.
The restriction dossier formed the basis of a public consultation from 22 March 2023 to 25 September 2023. ECHA’s scientific committees (the Committee for Risk Assessment (“RAC”) and the Committee for Socio-economic Analysis (“SEAC”)) are currently formulating their opinions on the restriction dossier. RAC had previously checked the restriction dossier for feasibility. In October 2023, RAC published a statement indicating that parts of the restriction dossier were still too vague, making the restrictions’ application and feasibility problematic in practice.
In addition to the restriction dossier, a related proposal is currently on the table, namely to regulate fire-fighting foams that contain PFAS. De facto, this would constitute a ban on all PFAS in fire-fighting foams except where their use is essential for society. RAC and SEAC have already given this proposal a positive assessment, especially as suitable alternatives are available. It is now up to the European Commission to propose a corresponding regulation and decide on transposition across the EU together with the Member States. A decision is expected in 2025.
While there are formidable challenges in implementing a full PFAS ban, public support and advocacy can drive policymakers to take action. Increased awareness about PFAS and their dangers has led to a growing movement of individuals, organisations, and policymakers pushing for stronger regulations. Banning PFAS could protect future generations from their toxic legacy, but it will require coordinated efforts from all levels of government, industry leaders, and the public. Ultimately, a ban on PFAS represents an investment in a healthier, safer, and more sustainable future, ensuring that “forever chemicals” do not continue to harm our ecosystems, our health, and our communities.
